Random MS3 Chat Thread

[Fobio]

TM3 is a N@tor free zone

Had to change the spelling out of fear of prosecution


Wonder what Wendy's thinks about all of this?

Anonymous phone call anyone?

I don't think that is true. MSF is more concerned for non-MSF'ers claiming to be NATOR this and that, when they never put in the time on MSF to truly understand the NATOR creed and history. Now that our cars are mostly running fine, ppl have perversed NATOR into something as simple as another social media outlet to smack talk. Not many realize the roots of NATOR was first for men to come to gether to make things happen, and also to provide a non-judgemental support group in sharing and commiserating over failures ...not just for shared car troubles, but those of us who have become friends, to share in real life miseries and failures as well as celebrate victories.

It is the perversion of NATOR in lieu of fast cars and success that HQ would be concerned about. Furthermore, our tight knit local NATOR.TO group does carry out the NATOR creed and spirit whether we use their 5-ltr word or not. And we'd have nothing to NATOR about if it wasn't for its inception on MSF.

Another example...imagine Meatload/Robert Paulson...decided to start up his own Fight Club, after losing his first fight and never going back, while claiming his version is the same Fight Club as Tyler Durden's? I suppose that is the meat of the issue NATOR HQ is addressing...charlatans.

[loki]

But we don't let those guys into our "group" anyway


At the end of the day, nothing will change for the boys here in TO

[Fobio]

But we don't let those guys into our "group" anyway

At the end of the day, nothing will change for the boys here in TO

Well...it shouldn't be about letting ppl in...it's more about individuals making themselves worthy to be included. Case in point: everyone in TO bring their best to the table...tools, expertise, experience, insight, know-how...these are things each and every NATOR share with each other. Using this model, no one takes anything from the group for nothing...like free installs for someone just showing up and claiming NATOR.

I very much agree with you in that whatever is going on down in the US have very little to do with how we operate...if we have to change the name, so be it...who cares. We keep rolling the way we've been rolling.

[loki]

Well...it shouldn't be about letting ppl in...it's more about individuals making themselves worthy to be included. Case in point: everyone in TO bring their best to the table...tools, expertise, experience, insight, know-how...these are things each and every NATOR share with each other. Using this model, no one takes anything from the group for nothing...like free installs for someone just showing up and claiming NATOR.

I very much agree with you in that whatever is going on down in the US have very little to do with how we operate...if we have to change the name, so be it...who cares. We keep rolling the way we've been rolling.

Agreed

[Thrizzl3]

we need to have some BacoNATOR meets soon. at wendys..

[Fobio]

for those who are intersted, here's a sampling of two threads that are currently very active on MSF where we are hashing out heat management and OEM ringland issues. The discussion can only carry weight with the knowledge that is shared by those who work with or think about the car daily. When you brush aside all the homophobic and racial herp-derp on MSF, you will find very pertinent info regarding the current development of the platform:

MZR DISI Ringland Failures by Bluestreak

MZR DISI Heat Management by Dano

[cSPEED]

anyone help a brotha out?

general question: when doing any install on any car i've owned (all 2 of them) whats always made me the most nervous is the old rusted bolts that are impossible to detach. I would hate to strip the bolts and then have to deal with an even bigger problem. How do you guys remove bolts which are harder to remove? Do i need a compressor + air tools? Do you guys just spray the bolts with something and leave them over night?

My car will likely require some bigger installs in the near future (clutch/transmission/fmic). When I inquired about labor on these installs I realized I could probably just get the tools I need for the same/cheaper and just do it myself.. I'd prefer to learn something anyway.

[pwdunmore]

I would say its a combination of the two in order to get off old rusty bolts/nuts... Spray it and let it sit for a while then use the impact gun to get the bolt/nut going. Using hand tools doesn't apply the right forces in order to break the rust free and the impact gun shakes + spins so it helps knock everything free. Rusty bolts and nuts are one of my biggest fears too because you obviously don't want to break off anything.

Using power tools can still break off the stuff so its all about using your judgement when something is stuck. I had this issue with my DP and exhaust bolts... had to just take my time and spray the crap out of them with PB Blaster, had to do it one turn at a time but it worked.

[Mr Wilson]

I had a Baconator today. Regretted it ever since.

[BlueStreak]

Stupid question of the day:

Can I stack two ground wires together before attaching it to the car? Where's a good place to put a ground wire on the driver's side (near the fuse box)?

Yes. That's fine.

Should be a place on the drivers side fender right where the hood sits closer to the wipers.

[fywdyl]

Yes. That's fine.

Should be a place on the drivers side fender right where the hood sits closer to the wipers.

Thanks again Dave. Don't you love my stupid questions???

FYI, meth kit is all wired up and ready to go. Just missing an add-a-circuit to tap the fuse box for the controller's power.

I bought a few sets of add-a-circuit, but they can't handle more than 10A, so I ordered something from ebay instead.

[BlueStreak]

Np.

Why do you need more than 10A? Guardian Angel?

[fywdyl]

Np.

Why do you need more than 10A? Guardian Angel?

The instructions said 10-15A, but the only fuse I found that was 10A is for the ECU, I don't want to mess with that in case something goes wrong.

[loki]

The instructions said 10-15A, but the only fuse I found that was 10A is for the ECU, I don't want to mess with that in case something goes wrong.

BlueStreak has a product for that.....

[fywdyl]

BlueStreak has a product for that.....

Yes I know, if I had boost gauges and GA and such to install as well, I would've gotten one for sure.

[SomeGuy]

anyone help a brotha out?

general question: when doing any install on any car i've owned (all 2 of them) whats always made me the most nervous is the old rusted bolts that are impossible to detach. I would hate to strip the bolts and then have to deal with an even bigger problem. How do you guys remove bolts which are harder to remove? Do i need a compressor + air tools? Do you guys just spray the bolts with something and leave them over night?

My car will likely require some bigger installs in the near future (clutch/transmission/fmic). When I inquired about labor on these installs I realized I could probably just get the tools I need for the same/cheaper and just do it myself.. I'd prefer to learn something anyway.

Pentetrating fluid (Acetone + ATF works well if you don't want to get liquid wrench/pb blaster/wd40 penetrant) will help free things up, give it at least a few minutes before going at it, the longer the better. Impact wrench can help because it applies force a little differently (hammering versus constant) but it can also very easily break things off or round off fastners before you have a chance to stop it. A big breaker bar and good quality sockets is key, as you can apply more force more evenly in the right way, flank drive sockets help from rounding things off, the right sizing is critical (no useing sae on a metric fastner). Don't ever heave on something if the socket isn't fully square and on the nut/bolt, it will just round it off, avoid extensions/universals as well as they don't apply torque as squarely if you can help it, use a wire brush to clean things up so the socket can fit on all the way. A torch helps (propane/mapp is ok, oxy-acetylene is better) to heat the area around the stuck bolt causing it to swell and break the rusty bonds. A bit of skill and knowledge helps too.

Failing all that, have extractors, damaged socket removers, cutoff wheels, grinders, etc will help to remove shit once it breaks. Then just need to replace the bolts which can be a bit of fun from time to time to find. Plan ahead, if shit looks rusted up, buy the replacements before you start and swap them anyway.

Finally, on assembly use some anti-seize, grease, fluid film, thread locker, etc (the right kinds where appropriate of course) to help things go together, stay together and come apart easily in the future.

[cSPEED]

Pentetrating fluid (Acetone + ATF works well if you don't want to get liquid wrench/pb blaster/wd40 penetrant) will help free things up, give it at least a few minutes before going at it, the longer the better. Impact wrench can help because it applies force a little differently (hammering versus constant) but it can also very easily break things off or round off fastners before you have a chance to stop it. A big breaker bar and good quality sockets is key, as you can apply more force more evenly in the right way, flank drive sockets help from rounding things off, the right sizing is critical (no useing sae on a metric fastner). Don't ever heave on something if the socket isn't fully square and on the nut/bolt, it will just round it off, avoid extensions/universals as well as they don't apply torque as squarely if you can help it, use a wire brush to clean things up so the socket can fit on all the way. A torch helps (propane/mapp is ok, oxy-acetylene is better) to heat the area around the stuck bolt causing it to swell and break the rusty bonds. A bit of skill and knowledge helps too.

Failing all that, have extractors, damaged socket removers, cutoff wheels, grinders, etc will help to remove shit once it breaks. Then just need to replace the bolts which can be a bit of fun from time to time to find. Plan ahead, if shit looks rusted up, buy the replacements before you start and swap them anyway.

Finally, on assembly use some anti-seize, grease, fluid film, thread locker, etc (the right kinds where appropriate of course) to help things go together, stay together and come apart easily in the future.

Saved this post.

Thanks for this.

[BlueStreak]

The instructions said 10-15A, but the only fuse I found that was 10A is for the ECU, I don't want to mess with that in case something goes wrong.

How are you wiring it? Something doesn't make sense.

[fywdyl]

How are you wiring it? Something doesn't make sense.

Pump red line to controller green line.

Then controller red line taps into the fuse box.

I looked online and the instructions were to use an add-a-circuit and tap into the ENG BAR fuse, which is 15A, but my stupid add-a-circuit only supports up to 10A.



So then I tried looking for a 10A fuse, and the only one I found was one that's called ENG+B. I looked that up online, and that fuse is for the PCM/ECU.

[pwdunmore]

Since we're on the topic of Methanol... For anyone planning to buy a kit for the summer or some time soon, Fobio just set up a GB.

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...Kit-470-ALL-IN

I'll be in, great timing

[-cj-]

but my stupid add-a-circuit only supports up to 10A.

Don't tell Paul, but I've tapped into a 30 amp circuit with a tap-a-circuitNothing happened... I'm sure it has something to do with the gauge of wire used and probably other factors that Paul could talk about for hours. But at the end of the day, your pump won't be running continously, so I don't think the 5amps are gonna make a difference.... (I assume you're talking about the rating on the add a circuit that says you shouldn't run more then 10 amps, regardless of fuse used, right?)

Just pull that 10 amp fuse out and slap on the ENG BAR 15. Then slap on a 10 amper in the add-a-circuit closest to the wire feeding your pump...

[fywdyl]

Don't tell Paul, but I've tapped into a 30 amp circuit with a tap-a-circuitNothing happened... I'm sure it has something to do with the gauge of wire used and probably other factors that Paul could talk about for hours. But at the end of the day, your pump won't be running continously, so I don't think the 5amps are gonna make a difference.... (I assume you're talking about the rating on the add a circuit that says you shouldn't run more then 10 amps, regardless of fuse used, right?)

Just pull that 10 amp fuse out and slap on the ENG BAR 15. Then slap on a 10 amper in the add-a-circuit closest to the wire feeding your pump...

I was so close to doing that... ha ha. It's my first time doing electrical stuff, so I was a little bit hesitant...

[breakfasteatre]

Don't tell Paul, but I've tapped into a 30 amp circuit with a tap-a-circuitNothing happened... I'm sure it has something to do with the gauge of wire used and probably other factors that Paul could talk about for hours. But at the end of the day, your pump won't be running continously, so I don't think the 5amps are gonna make a difference.... (I assume you're talking about the rating on the add a circuit that says you shouldn't run more then 10 amps, regardless of fuse used, right?)

Just pull that 10 amp fuse out and slap on the ENG BAR 15. Then slap on a 10 amper in the add-a-circuit closest to the wire feeding your pump...

If it was actually pulling 30 amps through a wire rated for 10, there is a good possibility if its fused at 30 amps, the wire will burn out, and who knows what other electronics or harnesses.

You dumbasses

[-cj-]

Hey Alex, have you looked at your PJB and examined the wires leading out of the fuse box?? With the exception of a few wires, they're mostly high gauge wire..

BESIDES... You aren't pulling 30 amp through the add-a-circuit WIRE, you're pulling it through the fuse holder/blade. I seriously doubt you're gonna melt the add-a-circuit itself.

WE KNOW YOU'RE AN ELECTRICIAN TOO ALEX, I'M SORRY I FORGOT TO MENTION YOUR NAME WHEN I CALLED OUT PAUL... MY BAD

[loki]

Dumbasses