Random MS3 Chat Thread

[shift8]

They're a pretty standard thread size, so get some replacement bolts (rather than hex cap screws) to replace them. If you get stuck, grind a slot head into the top of them and use a big ass screwdriver to remove.

Haha that was my backup plan Have the Dremel packed up and ready to head down to Streetsville after chiro.

Sprayed some penetrating fluid last time I was there, so hopefully that'll help. Not too worried about the screw itself, more worried about it snapping off in the hole.

Can't wait to get the car home and do a proper tear down and engine bay corrosion clean up. Now that it's my third car I can actually do a more thorough tear down than when it was my daily.

[SomeGuy]

Haha that was my backup plan Have the Dremel packed up and ready to head down to Streetsville after chiro.

Sprayed some penetrating fluid last time I was there, so hopefully that'll help. Not too worried about the screw itself, more worried about it snapping off in the hole.

Can't wait to get the car home and do a proper tear down and engine bay corrosion clean up. Now that it's my third car I can actually do a more thorough tear down than when it was my daily.

Snapping off won't be the end of the world. The shroud will come off then, which means you can get the TMIC off, which means you should be easily able to drill out or depending on the TMIC, thread the rest through from the back with vise grips.

Hopefully they come out clean though I always use a cordless impact on them, less chances of breaking stuff than using hex keys or a ratchet I find.

[shift8]

Snapping off won't be the end of the world. The shroud will come off then, which means you can get the TMIC off, which means you should be easily able to drill out or depending on the TMIC, thread the rest through from the back with vise grips.

Hopefully they come out clean though I always use a cordless impact on them, less chances of breaking stuff than using hex keys or a ratchet I find.

Yea unfortunately I don't think I have the proper size hex for my cordless impact. Always some sort of bit to buy

But you're right not end of the world, and I have a tap and die set at home incase I needed to retap it. Important part is getting access to the throttle body tonight anyways.

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[shift8]

Welp got everything apart, cleaned the Tb (which wasn't actually as bad as thought and secretly hoped. Thanks OCC and EGR delete).

No bueno. Think it might be electrical but ran out of time to start probing via shop manual. At this point unfortunately quick tow to the shop for a debugging session.

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[shift8]

Welp got everything apart, cleaned the Tb (which wasn't actually as bad as thought and secretly hoped. Thanks OCC and EGR delete).

No bueno. Think it might be electrical but ran out of time to start probing via shop manual. At this point unfortunately quick tow to the shop for a debugging session.

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So quick update in case anyone cares. I was somewhat on the right track with it being electrical. Turns out I was doing the right thing but in the wrong area.

After a bunch of debugging at the dealership (more thorough update Friday when I can get back down to pick up the car and talk to the tech), I understand the issue had to do with corrosion, likely with grounding, in a different area than I was working.

Over the winter I'll be putting the car on jack stands and pulling a bunch of stuff off and doing some corrosion clean up and repair, then try and do some sort of sealing to reduce it in the future.

The nice thing going forward is this car will no longer be seeing winter driving while it remains in my possession. However long that is

More to follow. Would have been likely I would have resolved it myself if the car had been in my garage and I could have more easily worked on it here. C'est la vie.

[shift8]

So quick update in case anyone cares. I was somewhat on the right track with it being electrical. Turns out I was doing the right thing but in the wrong area.

(snip)

More to follow. Would have been likely I would have resolved it myself if the car had been in my garage and I could have more easily worked on it here. C'est la vie.

So ordering a new fuse block due to a bunch of corrosion. Looking at the diagnostics the voltage is really low in a lot of spots. A bit better with replacement of a few fuses but still really rough idle.

Hopefully this will sort out the electrical. Also looking like new turbo soon due to a whine I'm hearing, and tech noted a lot of shaft play.

Pretty sure I'm gonna go BNR S1. I don't really have much interest in big turbo upgrade. Might also look into the Corksport turbo which from what I've read seems to be well received.

Suggestions or pointers to used would also be welcome.

[SomeGuy]

So ordering a new fuse block due to a bunch of corrosion. Looking at the diagnostics the voltage is really low in a lot of spots. A bit better with replacement of a few fuses but still really rough idle.

Hopefully this will sort out the electrical. Also looking like new turbo soon due to a whine I'm hearing, and tech noted a lot of shaft play.

Pretty sure I'm gonna go BNR S1. I don't really have much interest in big turbo upgrade. Might also look into the Corksport turbo which from what I've read seems to be well received.

Suggestions or pointers to used would also be welcome.

The CS turbo is a fair bit bigger than the k04 or even the BNR S1...you probably would be better served finding a good condition used k04.

[MikeTheCheek]

Love my CS turbo. Not really sure what the price is of the bnr s1 but if they're comparable and you want something that can give you quite a bit more hp down the road, go CS. If strict k04 and nothing more, then BNR is definitely still a great option

[shift8]

Love my CS turbo. Not really sure what the price is of the bnr s1 but if they're comparable and you want something that can give you quite a bit more hp down the road, go CS. If strict k04 and nothing more, then BNR is definitely still a great option

Basically price is 899 vs 1099 USD between BNR S1 and CS...

Not sure I'm looking for a HP upgrade for fear of resulting in engine rebuild, but I'm probably already in that territory at 185k

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[shift8]

Love my CS turbo. Not really sure what the price is of the bnr s1 but if they're comparable and you want something that can give you quite a bit more hp down the road, go CS. If strict k04 and nothing more, then BNR is definitely still a great option

Also I'll have to look at the power curves of the various turbos as I don't really want to introduce any additional turbo lag

I really should have just sold the MS3 a while ago and bought an NB Miata as a dedicated track car

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[mickey_g]

Not sure if you saw this...but Edge has an aftermarket OE replacement turbo worth looking at if you are not looking for increased power and saves you some coin over the BNR

http://edgeautosport.com/oe-aftermar...d-6-2006-2007/

[shift8]

Not sure if you saw this...but Edge has an aftermarket OE replacement turbo worth looking at if you are not looking for increased power and saves you some coin over the BNR

http://edgeautosport.com/oe-aftermar...d-6-2006-2007/

My googling didn't find that. I'll check it out thanks!

[loki]

Gt3071r as a minimum


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[loki]

I have an extra one that needs rebuilding


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[Como]

Has anyone done their own valve cleaning? Was just wanting to try the b12 with picks and wire brushes technique. Walnut shells are supposed work amazing but I don’t really have the equipment for that.

Tempted to do mine either just before or maybe while my car is in hibernation.

[shift8]

Well, we're home. Fuse block not changed because price I got was a mistake. Price was just for the plastic box

FYI never need to replace the fuse box. About 3200 bux brand new (I did not replace it).

Got all the fuses replaced and some mild cleaning. I'll have to finish it off so that things sty clean and keep working.

Now to look into turbo replacements. Getting quite a bit of whine now. Will follow up shortly but basically whine sounds like it's coming from where I'm pointing in the picture.

[SomeGuy]

Uhm, that's right by the HPFP...

[shift8]

Uhm, that's right by the HPFP...

The fuel pump is a bit further back right? It's really weird. It's like a higher pitch whine, almost like something is leaking air around a rubber gasket.

Have autotech HPFP internals, bought new around 145k, car has 185k now, so I'd be surprised if there is a failure there.

I'll try and get a video and audio recording of what I'm hearing. Wasn't doing this until I let the car sit for 5 weeks. It's crazy how many problems popped up by parking in a garage for just over a month. I'm sure they were there and have just manifested now

[shift8]

The fuel pump is a bit further back right? It's really weird. It's like a higher pitch whine, almost like something is leaking air around a rubber gasket.

Have autotech HPFP internals, bought new around 145k, car has 185k now, so I'd be surprised if there is a failure there.

I'll try and get a video and audio recording of what I'm hearing. Wasn't doing this until I let the car sit for 5 weeks. It's crazy how many problems popped up by parking in a garage for just over a month. I'm sure they were there and have just manifested now

https://youtu.be/WdrDLADQBYM

Listening again it actually sounds like it's coming down from near the throttle body, not at the top.

Since I removed the throttle body, I'm starting to think maybe a leak around the gasket?

[SomeGuy]

Yes HPFP is just slightly back of where you are pointing...but given you were thinking turbo and where you were pointing, it was closer.

That doesn't sound like a leak though, would be more periodic with each combustion. There isn't much moving in that location though, I mean under throttle body your basically at the transmission...pilot bearing/throw out bearing below. The fan is in front. Mechanically internally to the engine there isn't much either, everything else is on the left side (timing chain, belt drive, etc). Sort of reminds me of the sound my spill valve would make at cold start...known issue with aftermarket hpfps at cold start/idle. If you blip the throttle does it go away when you do it?

[shift8]

Yes HPFP is just slightly back of where you are pointing...but given you were thinking turbo and where you were pointing, it was closer.

That doesn't sound like a leak though, would be more periodic with each combustion. There isn't much moving in that location though, I mean under throttle body your basically at the transmission...pilot bearing/throw out bearing below. The fan is in front. Mechanically internally to the engine there isn't much either, everything else is on the left side (timing chain, belt drive, etc). Sort of reminds me of the sound my spill valve would make at cold start...known issue with aftermarket hpfps at cold start/idle. If you blip the throttle does it go away when you do it?

Yea I'm a bit confused too. At first thought it was the pipe on top which does have air moving but listening again in the garage instead of outside it sounds a lot more like by the throttle body.

Blipping the throttle doesn't seem to make it go away. When I recorded it the engine was cool(ish) so the rad fan wasn't running (not an electric motor whine from the rad fan).

Seemed to do it even once I was home after driving an hour so didn't seem to go away after things warmed up.

Also when I increase rpm from like 900 to 1400 or so you can hear the whine change tone a bit. After a certain rpm you can't really hear it any more but I think that's because the engine just gets a lot louder.

I've never really heard that sound before. Also if it matters clutch in or out doesn't cause any change to the sound.

[shift8]

Also the mechanic mentioned the turbo when I pointed out that whine but now that I'm pin pointing it to the front of the engine I'm much less convinced the turbo has anything to do with this.

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[ricola]

Hey guys. Anyone that can weigh in on the Damond fost intake manifold? It looks so nice.


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[shift8]

Hey guys. Anyone that can weigh in on the Damond fost intake manifold? It looks so nice.

Was going to look into it if they ever figured out the TMIC setup, or order one and try to figure it out with my brother in law as he has access to a pipe bender...

[shift8]

Also the mechanic mentioned the turbo when I pointed out that whine but now that I'm pin pointing it to the front of the engine I'm much less convinced the turbo has anything to do with this.

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Made myself up a boost leak tester today. Good news is I've isolated a boost leak to the same area that is making the whining noise.

More to follow. Gonna pull the IC off and determine if I have some loose connections or if there is a crack in some tubing.