





I'm the exception, but I do plan on going fully mounted in the future.
Quick question on the Cobb ap - is there a difference between AP for Gen1s and Gen2? Can i buy a used on from someone that used it on a Gen1 and run diff maps for my Gen2?
is there a physical difference? How can you tell - will is say on the box or anywhere on the AP?


V1 uses a USB cable. V2 has what looks to be a phone cord end that plugs into it.
Hole In Block Tuning! I'll give you HIB.
2010 MS3 Black395whp/386wtq
| Molnar Rods | CP-e Stage 2 Pistons | Much Head Work | ATP GTX3076 | Tial 38mm EWG | HTP 4 Inch Intake | BSD | Passenger and Rear MM | Denso ITV22's | OCC | Ultimate Racing TBE | Tredstone TR8C FMIC | Tial BPV | Autotech Internals | Grimmspeed ECBS 3 port | Te37 Volks| 245/45/17 Dunlop zzi tires| Cobb AP Self Street Tuned | Sonic Tuning CO's | stoptech breaks and slotted roters |
thanks - one last question. The seller has to un-marry his AP in order for my car to sinc with - is that right?


Where is a good place to buy tires and rims? I'm looking for some 17's and winter tires, tire rack has what I want for $1400(inlcuding taxes and shipping) so i will just have to install. Are there any local shops in Toronto that have food deals? or even cash deals?



Look in the sponsor section on this website. There are several good options.
0.000212524463 gigawatts


What winter tires are you getting? It sounds a bit expensive for a set of 17" winter tires and rims (steel rims?) + installing at your own expense.
1994 Mazda MX-6 Mystere - SOLD
2001 Mazda Protege MP3 - SOLD
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 - SOLD
BYE MAZDA




Yes really. Most people do the motor mounts cause they find the engine's rocking around. For them they think the engine mount's not hard enough and it's the design's fault. For me I think of it as if you aren't shifting smoothly enough for the stock mount likely you should be. A stiffer mount just move the drive train shock from basically a constant stream of small clutch dumps to the next component in the system. Personally, I find after a year I am able to shift the car without the engine rocking around even during hard acceleration. The only time I find "wheel hop" is WOT in slippery conditions. But it's not during a shift it's when it hits a bump WOT and the road's not able to handle the torque.
I sent you a PM about the winters I'll be selling that were used on my Mazdaspeed3. Pics are at: https://picasaweb.google.com/jonwils...azdaspeed6Rims
Jon



During steady acceleration there aren't issues with the stock mount, it's already loaded. It's between shifts, you let off the gas the engine rocks forward as you engage another gear and then pulls back when you get back on the gas. This movement is undesirable and actually causes more wear to components and makes for sloppier feel of the shifts. I've driven both this 3 and my previous 3 with stock mounts and I was perfectly capable of being smooth, but with the RMM changed on this 3 it's even better and also makes it more forgiving of sloppy shifts (nobody shifts perfectly 100% of the time). Also when rolling in first gear in stop and go traffic it gets rid of some of that bobbing/shaking when getting on and off the gas.
Anyone who argues that an upgraded RMM is not worth it has either never driven a car with one or is an idiot.
And as for vibes...just get the stage 2 cpe or a ~60 duro. The only time the vibes are noticable is when idling with the AC on.
- 2021 Porsche Macan GTS -
- 2016 Lexus NX200t F Sport -
- 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Black Mica - SOLD -


I've driven a car with and without during daily spirited driving. I'm not in any rush to do it... You calling me an idiot?




